Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 29 of 29

Thread: How To Tune A Computer Bike

  1. #21
    Andiss is computer bike racing weepee pro's? Man, if I could only assemble a pit crew of 2... We'd be all over your wattage in that 10x10 cottage. One 'Humble' and keep watching the trapspeed cause without the $reen to make the machine run... Hats why I love the odds these days.



    Computer bike racing is a different animal and it speaks get it together or spend half/the/whole day Key Leu Less!



    News at 11.



    Signed,

    NOLTT (no won list Inns 2 turtle) is day underground


  2. #22
    Hey Jason, you might be out of a job soon. Tell the boss he's going in the wrong direction. What do you think?



    http://woolichracing.com/

  3. #23
    Ruh Ro!! Been hearing a lot about that flashing stuff lately. Seems to be growing.
    "To know and not to do is not to know"...uuuhhh..Huh???

  4. #24
    Not bad option if you go to dyno as not all bikes can use the data logger they sell to log live data to auto tune at moment ( like the K6 k7 ) .. Isn't cheaper than top tuning rivals at moment but still early .. Could be improved in future .

  5. #25
    Pwrcomdr 5 is what I'm describing here. If you do not have an 02 sensor plugged in, you are out there stuck with a preset map running and no change happening. With autotune, you are running on a dyno hitting the tach down the straights. There, it's setting cells in real time working the numbers out.

    Working the numbers out? Oh, you mean if it's a cold day, that map is going to autotune to the data coming in. Cool. If it's a hot day, auto is going to lean out the tune. Why? It's expanding air so it has to step down to the better tune and step up to exploit the conditions. No auto, you are stuck with the same target = No change in tune. Yeah, the OEM parameters adjust (w/out 02), but there is auto with new data to refine = Retune away from that preset target.

    Since you pulled your hair out reading the basics, you know 14.7 is ideal AFR. The higher the AFR number the better gas mileage think. This says lean. If I want power I move to a lower number under 14 and now run rich and aim for most torque and you play with the AFR in that direction.

    1. I should understand limp or the a-N variables and remain without a code when tuning/racing.
    2. I need an AFR meter, because my bike is a snowflake and I tune what the bike wants.
    3. I can swap the 02 sensor to autotune once I fill my target map and note the AFR from there.
    4. I can run 2 maps and swap from infield map to straightway map is one combo.
    5. I can run 2 test maps via a toggle away and note the 2 AFR changes seat of the pants and the visual AFR number it changed to.
    6. I can add driveability out of a slow speed/rpm turn via the accel mode.
    7. I can run only one map during autotune so my 2 map toggle finds my AFR (I like), because snowflake runs within an AFR range or she burns up or boils over.
    8. I need to understand lean-is-mean and fat-torque breaks the tire loose. If I let autotune take over, I lose my break-loose, where autotune smooths-out that cell change.
    9. I need to find and fill certain cell columns depending on the track-to-turn- to-rpm conditions. I do not want a 0-cell where my rpm slows down to a range in a zero filled cell. I will let autotune tune it up and out of that corner all in a smoother transition, if I breakout into a lower rpm for this corner.
    10. I should be understanding I close TPS I still climb each step from zero column on up. So zero cell is zero tuning in autotune. Do I exploit the cells I never move down to in rpm, but the TPS does. Did we catch that tuning step?

  6. #26
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQFS2jzCw0k
    : Say, you pissed out the bike last year, did not buy a new bike, but you are going to the race with what you have.
    : WOT else is there?
    : I'd check compression before pissing away all that money and you had nothing but a worn out thingaymebob.
    : I think you might have something there.
    : I sure would not pack up and leave without checking the bike's health.
    :... So we are going to pack up anyway, what's the Penultimate number again?
    : I'm going to sit back and enjoy the season.
    : Hey wait a minute, you're not giving us one of them there, 'knowitall' 'above y'all' 'my shit don't sink' sermon?
    : I'm just noticing who is on WOT page we pack and pick our race venue.
    : Where is the monitor?!?! He called me something I think?
    : Think I'll head out to the tune up shop and see how my honey is doing after the sync and plug change. Oh you wouldn't believe me if I told you how simple those two moves are out of a corner.
    : Screw that guy! Lets go. He's a shittyIT anyway, that turtle guy. What's a leakdown?
    Signed,
    Ain't My Bike!
    And to shove it up deeper in the cranium is where I sit, that's a cold engine of 240 is it? 261psi is [max number] in a hot setting says the book. But I took the 'one day that it won't start' approach is the day you walk out to it and it won't start>> is that number.

  7. #27
    There's Tunie!!! Santa treat you well? Maybe a new chemistry set for your experiments?
    "To know and not to do is not to know"...uuuhhh..Huh???

  8. #28
    No Chida lol, it was time for a little minor service. Experiment wise I've come across a few things in a serendipity kind of way.
    My 1st gen comp was taken cold @220 vs. a hot book max number of 228psi.
    My 2nd gen had a max book range of 261 and mine came in cold @240psi.
    Both received the same air cleaner setups.
    1st gen was broken in hard and used oil between 2.7k intervals. That comp test was done at 18k miles.
    2nd gen was broken in by the book and uses no oil as we speak. This test was done with 9929.0 miles.
    So my thought was, follow book on the 2nd gen and then check the range between bikes. The thought is: Would I be 8 pounds off [breaking the gen2 in hard again] and lose oil if I ran a 253 cold? Hard to say, but I'll take the oil staying in the case and 21 pounds difference this time. And too, being if my comp tool is accurate?
    Then, here is where the serendipity kicks in. One day I get on the bike, take off, this guy sends a message and I'm thinking where did the getup and go? Left it in the garage
    For some strange reason, I immediately looked for an oil level. Sure enough, 1st gen is low on oil. I top off the oil and then it gets foggy. I can't remember if I went back out same day, or rode it the next day and oh, you have got to be kidding me when I did! I said, you cat's meow, you SOB, I don't believe it, to I can't believe it's not butter.
    Don't chew go flapping the lips about this, but I'd be tuning some crankcase pressure via the oil level. So that was when, back in '010 say? I'm watching a video, two team drivers are being interviewed and the car was a sebring 24hr kind of car maybe? They are discussing race setup and mention crankcase pressure and both look at each other and laugh. So it was nothing new. Just a shitty break-in with good compression or how do I say an oiler and it sure was not carbon build adding to that compression within 18k?
    Segway to the gen2 and now we add the sync with new plugs. Once I found the compression was not going to run the manometer to overcompensate for a low cylinder, I was good to go. You ride the bike over and over and the sync is so subtle, the out of sync seems to be tolerable; to I feel no difference.
    Oh, but when you sync a computer bike, what a throttle response down low. What a smoother ride. What a linear pull and not one lagging to catch up so you are going/slowing/going/slowing out of pulse. Sync those tubes and it's a different bike; and a different throttle blip look out!
    This would be pretty much 3 moves before the season starts. The compression test just to see if it's worth running. The oil level and for sure the throttle sync.

  9. #29

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •